- I got the Telecaster back and tried it out earlier this evening. It looks and sounds lovely, but the wiring is wrong – the volume control doesn’t control the volume, which is a bit basic, isn’t it? So I’m going to have to take it back, which is a bit annoying. I’m fairly sure I know what he’s done wrong, and it’s easily put right, but you’d think he’d have tested it before handing it over, wouldn’t you?
- I noticed a minor infestation of tiny spiders in the bathroom just now. God knows how they got there, because that’s one of the two rooms I’m fairly careful about keeping clean. (Plus the kitchen, of course!) I’ve killed them with bleach and spray, I think, but I’ll have to do a full inspection in the morning, before [fill in your own chosen activity here].
- I’ve also, I think, killed the ants out on the patio. I know they’re supposed to be part of the ecological food chain, and blah blah, but they’ll just have to go and be ecological somewhere else. I don’t want ants in my pa… tio.
- I’ve finished reading ‘Go Fetch a Watchman’ and Nick Hornby’s ‘Funny Girl’. I know which one entertained me more.
- I’m thinking, yet again, about relocation. There’s nothing to keep me here, except inertia. I’ll probably blog again about this, if I can summon up the ertia.
Tuesday, 4 August 2015
Five
Saturday, 1 August 2015
Apple Sauce!
But not just any old apples.
(Very new ones in fact.) My gardener, Nick, told me the other day that the way to tell whether
apples are ready to eat is by the colour of the pips: if they’ve turned brown,
that means the tannins have set and they’re good to go. Or something.
So I had three fairly hefty windfalls (not really, there
wasn’t much wind today, but they fell anyway) and I cut them open. The pips were still whiteish, but “well, I figured,
what the hell?”* I had a pork chop to
eat up.
The apple sauce was better than the pork. In fact, it was superb. (I take no credit, all I did was peel, chop and
cook them, with a dash of sugar and lemon juice.) There’s a good yield on the tree this year, so
by November I’ll be all appled-out, but I’ll have a full freezer.
*Spot the quote!
Tuesday, 28 July 2015
The Internet of Thinks
Driving back from Wales through the drizzle, lorry spray,
lane-hoppers and self-fulfilling prophesies on the traffic displays, I rather
fancied one of these driverless cars we hear about. I know the technology’s not quite perfected
yet, but Moore’s Law assures me that it will be by next Friday.
So, I’m wishing I was sitting in the back seat, nodding off
while my car navigates the roadworks
between junctions 14 and 13, imagining the near future…
I’ve been down the pub in the next-but-several village, and
I know I’m three pints over the limit. Or
four. Or several. I can still work a phone, though, so I tap up
the SmartCar app and tell Siri: “Car!
Come here!” Car, of course, knows
where ‘here’ is – it’s where the phone is – so she checks her charge, backs out
of the car park of some pub in the, or a, previous village and sets off down
the lane.
This is when Car’s GPS gets hacked or confused and decides
that the best route is via Zeebrugge.
Car makes her way to Felixstowe, crosses the North Sea on a ferry she’s
booked through O&P, does a three-point and pulls onto the car deck for the
return trip. Being the
precision-engineered artefact she is, she stops exactly 5 millimeters behind
the vehicle in front, which then reverses.
Car instantaneously does the same.
Unfortunately, the human driver of the 18-wheeler behind is less
precision-engineered, and rams into her backside.
The insurance claim is ongoing. The latest I heard, the software developer at
Goggle was being held to account.
Meanwhile, I’d summoned a driverless Ubre taxi, which delivered me
safely to Tavistock, where I was informed by my fridge back in Norfolk that I
was getting low on cottage cheese.
Human error? Yes, it
always is. The question being, which
human?
Sunday, 26 July 2015
Weather Window
Sheila, whose eightieth it was, has four children, about a
dozen grandchildren, and a good smattering of great-grandchildren. As far as I could tell, they were all there,
including the two youngest great-grands, five and seven weeks old. Then there were cousins, nieces and nephews,
friends from all over the globe, and hangers-on like me. I’d guess about forty humans in all, plus the
dogs.
Being almost all Welsh, they almost all talked almost all
the time (all right, not the two babies, though I think they’re working on it),
not too bothered about whether anyone was listening, which makes for a great
party. I talked to quite a few of them, I
think, but don’t ask me what about – it’s called ‘craic’ in Ireland, ‘liming’ in
Tobago, I don’t know what in Welsh or English.
The fun point is that the performance outweighs the content.
The drive down the M4 on Friday was one of the worst in my
living memory. Driving through pelting
rain and the resulting road spray and road blindness is mentally and physically
exhausting, especially as most motorway users don’t know how to do it. The journey back today was, if anything, even
worse. The M4 powers-that-maybe had
decided to switch on all the ‘50’ signs, put up a message saying ‘POOR DRIVING
CONDITIONS’, and (in my unfair estimation) pootle off down the pub. The result, of course, is that Sunday drivers
react to the signs rather than the actual conditions. I have proved this theory over and over
again. As soon as the warnings of a problem
disappear, so does the problem.
But miraculously, the 24 hours in between delivered the best
weather Pembrokeshire is capable of. The
heavens shone on Sheila’s party. I’m
sure she noticed, but she didn’t remark on it, at least not in my hearing. Most of the time she was too busy laughing.
Tuesday, 21 July 2015
Age Difference…
I’m going to my caravan neighbour Sheila’s eightieth
birthday barbecue on Saturday. I’ve been
to one or two of these Welsh birthday bashes down there before, so I know what
to expect. The finale, around midnight,
will be massed singing in which I will timorously join. If I can still find my vocal chords, that is.
Anyway, I needed to get her a card, so on a racing dash round Waitrose this morning I grabbed this from the ‘age-related’ section, without really looking at it.
Anyway, I needed to get her a card, so on a racing dash round Waitrose this morning I grabbed this from the ‘age-related’ section, without really looking at it.
I’m tempted to give it to her anyway, to see if she notices,
or feels complimented. Probably better
not, what do you think?
Thursday, 16 July 2015
SeenTV – the answer, and other stories
So I get there later than planned, sort myself out, have
some food and a drink (didn’t open the Pelorus, that’s still there for some
other celebration), and decide, perversely, to switch on the TV which I know is
beyond doubt kaput, and of course the damn thing lights up, perfectly,
twinkling innocently at me as if to say ‘sorry, did you ask me something?’
Well, I wasn’t having that, so I unplugged it, carted it
down to the shore, and cast it off the rock promontory into the depths of
Carmarthen Bay, where it swam out towards Swansea and torpedoed a tanker at
anchor off the Mumbles waiting for a parking space at Milford Haven…
No, that didn’t happen.
I switched it off again. Cheeky
blighter. Instead I stuck the iPod in
its dock, hit shuffle and found ‘Clean Up Woman’ by Betty Wright and ‘My Way’
(no, not that one!) by Eddie Cochran, and wondered why music sounds so much
better down there than up here, though the sound system cost a tenth as much. (I know the answer.)
Steve the Teeve turned up spot on time, which wasn’t hard as
we’d agreed on ‘sometime Wednesday afternoon’.
Pembrokeshire operates on its own timeframe, which makes the folk nicer,
I think. It can work against you, of
course, if you’re on a tight schedule; but I very rarely am, down there: that’s
the whole point!
So I now have a shiny new freesat dish, which means that the
nasty metal pole that used to vertically bisect the front window is gone
(tucked away under the van in case anyone else might want it, I’ll ask Joseph
next time) and I have an unimpeded view of Monkstone Point. (Except for those bloody sycamore trees.)
I got away quite early this morning, reached Carmarthen and
realised I’d forgotten to turn off the gas and water. I toyed with phoning Joseph and asking him to
do it, but I don’t like stacking up favours, so I turned round and went
back. I’m glad I did. It gave me a bonus glimpse of that view. And I had the cup of coffee I’d foregone
first time round.
Sunday, 12 July 2015
Seen TV? I’ll let you know…
I seem to going through one of those spells when stuff over
which I have no control starts behaving, if not plain wrongly, then at least
alarmingly unexpectedly. This happens
every year or two; I’m probably just unlucky in having bought the various
chunks of stuff at just the right times for their built-in obsolescence curves
to all peak simultaneously. At least
that’s what it feels like.
My iPhone, for example, gave me the jitters this afternoon
by getting confused about whether or not I’d installed the latest iOS update,
and threatening dire consequences if I hadn’t.
Then sending me another text telling me to ignore the previous one
because everything was probably all right.
(I paraphrase, but it was the implied ‘probably’ that threw me.)
Just as I was busy ignoring that, the phone told me I had to
dial 121 for a new voicemail, so I did, and the lady told me I had no new
voicemails. Eek!
And this computer has taken to showing me random green
flashes, like a kind of off-kilter Northern Lights, when I open the lid. It’s going wrong, obviously, and will get
replaced, but it’ll have to hang on till mid-August when Windows 10 comes
on-shelf, because I’m beggared if I’m gonna body-surf through the horror
rip-tide of W8 just to get to that remote, enticing shore. So it’s down to you, computer. I’m learning to remember to leave the lid
open, but habits are not instantly breakable.
Oh, (and this is where I came in), last time I was down
there, the TV in the caravan finally broke down. I mean, really
down. It’s been glitching for a couple of years,
and I’ve got through a truckload of remote batteries which have often done the
trick, but not this time. Zilch. Nada.
Niente … you know the rest.
So I’ve bought a new TV, and a Freesat box into the bargain,
and I’ll be off down the M4 on Tuesday, to celebrate the evening in solitary style
with a bottle of Cloudy Bay Pelorus, which I know is in the fridge there
(assuming the latter hasn’t snuffed it too, aaargh!), before the man I’ve
booked turns up Wednesday afternoon to install it all. His name is Steven, which is as good a piece
of anagrammatic nominative determinism as they come, innit?
That’s as long as that amber light in the car doesn’t come
on again.
Saturday, 11 July 2015
A very interesting number, 73
I was musing about memory, and memories, and it’s occurred
to me that celebrating the day of your actual physical birth, which you
probably can’t remember, is pretty meaningless.
What counts is when you first became aware, which you can only construe
as your earliest memory. I was nearly three
when I helped my father to hang out the huge Union Jack over the front garden
to celebrate the end of the War. (He
couldn’t have done it without me.) So
I’ll be just over seventy next week!
There may be a flaw in this approach. If there is, please don’t tell me.
Tuesday, 7 July 2015
Numb and Number
The relationship between me and mathematics has been like
that between a stalker and their victim – aware of each other, but hoping never
to meet face to face. (In this simile, which
will not be pursued further, maths is the stalker.) The concept of the stuff fascinates me, but I
don’t understand a bit* of it.
I’ve just almost finished a marvellous book which massively reinforces
the fascination, and even, possibly, an itsy smidgeon of the understanding. (Well, it couldn’t reduce it, could it?) It’s called ‘The Information’, by James Gleick
(Fourth Estate, 2011), and is basically a history of, well, information – its nature,
how it is (or isn’t) communicated (from African talking drums to quantum
computing) and, most importantly, how mathematics and information are
essentially the same thing.
That’s all I’m going to say about this book, except that once
or twice (all right, 150ish times), after surf-navigating a particularly turbulent
stretch, my neurons and synapses (they’re in there!) felt distinctly numb.
Just a couple of snippets that particularly grabbed me:
A guy called G. G. Berry, with Bertrand Russell, cheekily constructed
the Berry paradox, which goes something like this. Q: Is it possible to name the least integer
not nameable in fewer than nineteen syllables?
A: Yes: you’ve just done that.
But ‘the least integer not nameable in fewer than nineteen syllables’
actually contains eighteen syllables. So
the least integer not nameable in fewer than nineteen syllables has just been
named in fewer than nineteen syllables.
That was obviously a philosophers’ in-joke, but ‘interesting’
and ‘uninteresting’ numbers are more, um, interesting. An ‘interesting’ number, in the jargon, boils
down to being one that can be expressed by an algorithm. Hence ‘5’
is ‘the third prime number’, ‘121’ is ‘112’. The
really interesting ones come when the algorithm is shorter than the number,
thus facilitating data compression with all its essential benefits for
information exchange. But the really really interesting numbers are the ‘uninteresting’
ones, because they are random. There’s no
algorithm from which you can derive the number.
‘Random’ numbers are a building block of modern internet security. But the really really really interesting question is: how do you know they’re
random? Couldn’t it be that you just
haven’t found the algorithm yet? Vast
resources at NSA and GCHQ are being devoted to cracking that one.
And finally, a quote: “What
might not be gathered some day in the twenty-first century from a record of the
correspondence of an entire people?”
Andrew Wynter, ‘The Electric Telegraph’, 1845.
Sorry, that’s three snippets. Three is more than a couple. Like I said, numbers and me, duh.
*Carefully chosen word.
Friday, 3 July 2015
The Persistence of Memory
We all know how Dali put it, probably making ironic comments or raising profound questions about the mutability and erodibility of Time, or not, you decide. But the phrase popped into my mind from quite another direction, that of tomato protection.
Z and I had been discussing and comparing notes about
memory: things like ‘have I cleaned my teeth?’, through ‘did I have a shower?’,
all the way to ‘who are you, again?’ We concluded
(I think, I can’t remember exactly and I’m sure she’ll correct me if I’m wrong,
ha) that if one’s memory is indeed failing, one will by definition be the last
person to know; and that it might therefore be incumbent on others to gently
point it out.
Anyway, after Z had left, I went out to water the tomatoes,
and noticed that some perverse beast (almost certainly a blackbird, though I’ve
never caught him at it) had once again been digging deep holes in the compost in the planter,
all around the fledgling plants. I remembered
(I did!) that the other day, when I’d been down to the rarely-visited shed to
get a rake to gather up the early dropping apples, I’d noticed what looked like
some chicken wire lurking beneath the undergrowth. That might do, I thought.
So I dragged it out, and guess what, it had been carefully
cut to size and shape for the sole, obvious purpose of laying it across tomato
plants, in this planter, to protect them from marauding blackbirds. Try as I may, I have absolutely no memory of
doing that, although it can’t have been more than ten years ago. I don’t know whether to be pleased or
disturbed by this.
Sunday, 28 June 2015
Familiarity
One of the joys of a caravan visit, for me, is that very
little changes. Sometimes familiarity
and continuity, though they can easily tip over into boredom or indolence, are
what’s needed.
So, it was good that the rain started at Port Talbot (it
always does, if it’s going to), and the sun came out just as I crossed the
border from Carmarthenshire into Pembrokeshire (it sometimes does, if it’s
going to).
And my caravan neighbours (who I call B & B to remind me
of their names) were welcomingly there, as they always are every weekend (they
only come from Pont Abraham, 45 minutes, alright for some). And there were the usual seventeen (I
counted!) rabbits mowing away when I filled the first glass of the
evening. (I say the usual seventeen; I’d
guess they’re different ones from fifteen years ago, but I don’t know for sure;
and neither do they.)
Then there’s Joseph.*
As well as being familiar, as he should be after fifteen years, he can
be surprising. This time, I needed to
get rid of some very old, completely unsittable-on, plastic chairs, which I’d
proved wouldn’t fit in the boot without some help. As he explained, Joseph can’t take stuff to
the tip anymore without incurring a charge, and his informal deal with the bin
collectors has fallen through since they installed CCTV on the back of the
lorries. (I won’t repeat his remarks on
this topic.) He said he’d have a
think.
Half an hour later, he turned up at the caravan, toting an
angle grinder. ‘We’ll just chop their
legs off, shall we?’
The journey home this morning was familiar too. As soon as I’d crossed the Severn bridge, the
rain stopped and the sun peeked out.
*Not his real name, he’s
a very private person.
Saturday, 20 June 2015
Guitar Heroes
As I’ve decided to become a musician again, my darling 50-year-old
Fender Telecaster has gone into guitar hospital to have its innards fixed. The outside, at least the cosmetic as opposed
to functional parts, is beyond salvation, its battle scars and makeovers being
part of its life story, not to be resprayed or botoxed over. (This is starting to sound a bit
self-referential, but.) But it does have
to do its job, and plugging it into an amp does need to result in more than
electronic crackles.
Anyway, in preparation for that, I’d been picking it up and
picking a bit. Which has led me to ponder
on the guitar players I most wish I’d been, or at least wish I could play
like. So here are three:
Scotty Moore. When Elvis walked into Sam Phillips’ studio
that fateful day in 1954, Sam rapidly put together a scratch studio group to
back him. Scotty was the lynchpin, and
produced some great country-tinged fingerpicking licks that, to this day, I
find it hard to unravel.
But after
the great RCA sell-out (Sam got, I think, $34,000 for the lot, artist and
recordings; the illegal immigrant ‘Colonel Tom Parker’ got the right to squeeze
every squeezable cent out of ‘his discovery’, slowly eroding and then
destroying the talent in the process), the sound had to harden up, and Scotty
jumped in with both hands. But he was
too much of a natural-born musician to treat this new-fangled rock’n’roll stuff
as mere noise, as most people out of their teens did.
Take his solo on 'Too Much', from 1956. He starts with four bars of a vicious
chordal chromatic up-and-down run, as rock-n-roll as it comes, then wanders off
into territory more usually inhabited, at the time, by West Coast cool jazz
exponents like Stan Getz, before bringing it back down again with a snippet of
that good ol’ country pickin’. Sheer
genius! Scotty later claimed that the
middle bit was an accident, as the song was in an unfamiliar key (B flat) and
he’d got lost; but I don’t believe him.
Steve Cropper. From somebody who was, I submit, the real and
very present power behind the newly-ascended
King’s throne (imagine ‘Hound Dog’ without the guitar), to an equally
powerful but much less evident contributor.
If you’ve heard anything by Otis Redding, Sam and Dave, Wilson Pickett, Percy
Sledge, Eddie Floyd, or any other Memphis soul masterpiece from the sixties,
you’ve heard Steve, in his role as a member of Booker T and the MGs, the Stax
house rhythm section. I was going to
use the word ‘minimalism’, but that’s not it; ‘precision’ is closer, or just
plain ‘rightness’. I’ve chosen, of
course, 'Green Onions' – he only plays about ten notes, but they’re all the right
ones, necessarily in the right order.
Link Wray. Finally, a guitarist who, although he had a
long, illustrious career as a master picker (I remember a long-ago documentary
in which Link and Chet Atkins traded finger-style licks for several minutes,
competing and laughing out loud at each other’s audacity), is remembered for just
one ground-breaking single from 1958 – but what a single! If you’ve seen ‘Pulp Fiction’ you’ll know
exactly what I’m talking about: 'Rumble'.
It’s been said that without this record, the future of popular music
would have been very different – no heavy metal, no punk – you may have your
views on whether or not this would have been a good thing, but you can’t deny
its power. It hit me between the ears
when I first heard it, and I still love it.
When I said I wish I could play like them, of course I can,
at least some of the simpler stuff. (I
could teach anyone to play ‘Rumble’,
even if they’d never touched a guitar in their life.) What I really meant was: I wish I’d been
there. I wish I’d thought of it first!
Can’t wait to get the Tele back…
P.S. I’ve no idea
whether the Spotify links will work for you.
Saturday, 13 June 2015
To Do Or Not To Do?
I have three ‘to-do’ lists in my head, which I think of as
‘Must’, ‘Should’ and ‘Would Like’. I
also have a physical one, which vacillates between the whiteboard in the
kitchen (which I did away with two years ago, then reinstated two months ago
because after the decorators had been, my kitchen was briefly ‘terribly
house-and-garden’ and not to be sullied with Post-It stickers) and Post-It stickers.
‘Musts’, on the face of it, are easy, but they break down
when you break them down into their sub-categories, which I might (no, hell,
will, it’s me writing this stuff!) call internally- and externally imposed
‘musts’. Internally-imposed musts are
things like ‘must go shopping’ or ‘must clean the loo’. You either do them
or things start to get unsustainable. Externally-imposed
musts are trickier (‘must phone Sheila
(because she’s expecting me to)’, or ‘must
check minutes of last meeting (otherwise people will frown and I’ll blush’). They’re not quite ‘shoulds’, but veering in
that direction if I’m not carefully self-disciplined.
‘Would Likes’, or ‘Wants’, (such as ‘get new Dylan album*’ or ‘re-learn
the guitar’ or ‘sort out those 1990s photo
albums’) are easy. They will
happen. The only constraint is time and
energy (of both of which one has either to assume an unlimited supply, or to give
up).
Genuine ‘Shoulds’ are the hardest, because they are moral obligations
which no-one else will notice if they go unfulfilled. For this reason, I obviously can’t give any
examples here.
The modern world moulds and constrains us to live our lives
in lists. Butterflies and rainbows don’t
seem to have this problem. I suppose I’ll
have to carry on learning the game, until it doesn’t matter any more.
*Interesting. Dylan sings 30’s torch songs, and proves
that, though he’s no Tony Bennett, he can still hit several of the notes. But I can’t forgive his slaughter of ‘Some
Enchanted Evening’.
Thursday, 4 June 2015
Puglian Pecularities part 2
All right, the food:
Sea urchins. These were featured in a BBC programme about
Puglia a couple of months ago.
Apparently they’re best eaten live, straight from the sea, like
oysters. Sliced and cooked in a pasta
sauce, they don’t taste of anything much, except the sea, like oysters.
Supermarket vegetable
pricing. You know how you have to
delve through nested layers of blurry pictures on a touchscreen to find an aubergine? Not in the Famila supermarket in San
Vito. Each item that has to be weighed
has its own unique number: Melanzane
(aubergines)? 035. Just put it on the scale, key in the number,
out pops the sticky ticket. Brilliant!
Chickens. The local chickens are tiny by Brit standards,
but one is just right for two people. And
they taste like chickens used to taste in my childhood. I asked what they were fed on and was told: ‘Quello che c’é’–
whatever’s around. And they’re about €4 each.
Italian meal
structure. It’s now permissible to
have less than four courses for lunch.
But
it’s possible to have four courses for dinner. Ristorante dell’Annunziata (I
think) in Ceglie does antipasti
(twelve of them!), primo (big bowl of
linguine or bean puree), secondo (I chose rabbit stew) and dolce, for €20. All local fare and
recipes. Carafe of local Primitivo plonk
included.
Wednesday, 3 June 2015
Puglian Peculiarities
- The weather was poor by Puglian standards. On the first Monday night there was a scary thunderstorm, which took out the electricity supply for about fourteen hours. (We were informed on Tuesday morning that it wouldn’t be back on before 4 p.m.; it was actually restored at 2.30. This way of exceeding a target is a very Italian phenomenon.) Then, in week two, the wind kicked in. If we’d been purely after a lounger-and-pool holiday it would have been a downer, but as it was it got us out and about, dilettante culture vultures.
- Road signs are idiosyncratic. You’d think that finding your way through a small town like Carovigno, which is basically a high street surrounded by off-white low-rise suburbs, would be a doddle. Not so – the signposts clearly say ‘Brindisi’, so you follow them and find yourself in a dead industrial estate, or a litter-strewn cul de sac… Part of the problem is that they haven’t fully adopted the convention that an arrow pointing vertically means ‘straight on’. So you get two arrows, one on each side of the junction, one pointing left and one right; if you miss one of these, you erroneously turn left or right. And finding your way back from this error is an existential challenge. I swear that they reconfigure the roads whilst I’m executing the seven-point turn. It took an hour to get out of Otranto onto the coast road and find that gorgeous beach I’d remembered from all those years ago. When I finally got there, it reminded me of Studland.
- Baroque is everywhere, especially in Lecce. Those totally bonkers facades, gargoyles, pediments or whatever they are (see photo #1 in the previous post for a snippet) make you wonder what those guys were on. It surely wasn’t religion.
- I managed to swim in the villa pool most days – not very far, admittedly, because of my dodgy right arm – but still a breakthrough. I’d have loved to have surfed in the Adriatic, but that’s not easy when a) the tallest wave is about nine inches and b) I’d forgotten to take my togs.
- Two-stage plane trips were a first for me. We changed at Rome going out, Milan on the return, with several hours hanging around in airports – not fun! But the luggage made it through both ways, which I consider to be a miracle of logistical efficiency.
- And I haven’t even mentioned the food…!
Sunday, 31 May 2015
Highway 55* Revisited
I first visited Puglia in the summer of 1969, during a final
tour, backing a singer called Maurizio, in the death throes of what was left of
Dave Anthony’s Moods. We’d come there
from the nightmare of the Calabria toe, where in small hilltowns the police
patrolled at night in fours, with dogs, and black-clad young women hid their
children behind their legs and their faces behind veils at the approach of this
bunch of harmless would-be capelloni hippies,
and you had to get Davide, the roadie, to persuade a suspicious café to sell
you a horsemeat steak.
Puglia wasn’t a bit like that. Enlightenment was the word I used to myself,
back then, and it was a good one: the area was full of light, both literally
and figuratively. I remember a late
night conversation with a university student in Lecce, in which he summed up
the difference: “They are Arabs, we are Greeks”. Politically incorrect nowadays, perhaps, and
historically broad-brush – Puglia has been invaded more times, by more alien
forces, than perhaps anywhere else in Europe, including Britain – but it nailed
it at least at one level.
So my recent visit was more than just a holiday. I wanted to discover whether my hazily-recalled
impressions from forty-five years ago were still real – was it still the same? Or rather, did it still feel the same?
Well, the short answer is “Yes”. I’ll share a few details of the trip next
time, but meanwhile here are a few pictures.
*The E55 is the coastal near-motorway (I haven’t been able
to discover what the E stands for, as Italian roads are officially A, S, R or
P) which runs from Bari in the north to Lecce in the south, and hence will be
much travelled by any motorised visitor to Puglia.
Thursday, 14 May 2015
Getting Ready
I have a wimpish streak when it comes to getting on an aeroplane.* I don’t do this very often nowadays, which
makes it loom even more threateningly.
In a way, although the procedures are supposed to be much slicker
nowadays, what with t’internet and that, I hanker after the good old days when
you went up to Meadway Travel, sat down for a couple of hours with an expert called
Jenny who did all the legwork and answered all your questions (including the
ones you hadn’t thought of); and three days later a fat envelope dropped through
the letterbox, you gave the contents a skim, read the bit which told you where
and when to turn up and then forgot about it until departure day. They supplied all the bits of paper which now
you have to identify, download and (if you’re lucky and your version of Adobe
is the same as theirs – possible but unlikely) print off. And how is it that my question has never been Frequently Asked?
Anyway, all that’s sorted, so I’m distracting myself with
details. I went to Staples (you know,
the wonderful shop where you buy your, erm, staples) for some luggage
tags. (They had a choice of colours, I chose
white.) I went to another wonderful shop
called Clas Ohlson, which sells everything you can’t buy anywhere else, and got
continental plug adapters, a two-way headphone splitter, and an alarm
clock. I added antihistamine cream and
paracetamol to my packing list. And a
penknife. Never travel without a
penknife (in the hold, of course, not the carry-on): as I have noted before, it
contains a corkscrew. You have to be
equipped for emergencies when travelling.
Grand Tourists used to have several trunks-full of just-in-case stuff
sent luggage-in-advance.
I’m going to Puglia, just in case you wondered.
*Multiply everything
by ten when two aeroplanes (consecutive, not concurrent!) are involved.
Wednesday, 15 April 2015
Old Books
What do you do with old books? I don’t mean the fly-by-night paperbacks I
haul in periodically from Waterstone’s, read once and then recycle via the
bookbank up at the tip. (Or not,
sometimes they get kept, reread and, rarely, find their way into the permanent
library.) No, I’m talking about really old books.
About sixty of them have been furnishing my dining room for
twenty years or more, in a bookcase next to the fireplace. They range from assorted Prayer books and
semi-religious tracts (Foxe’s Book of Martyrs, anyone?), through an
almost-complete set of Dickens reissues (Unwin editions, 1930s I’d guess), to
worthy tomes like The Origin of Species, Macaulay’s Essays on English History,
and The French Revolution by Thomas Carlyle.
Plus a fair smattering of Victorian verse anthologies, several Works of Shakespeare,
and a possibly earlyish edition of Culpeper’s Complete Herbal. They’re all fairly tatty, almost certainly financially
worthless and, most importantly, with one or two exceptions have never been
read by anyone still alive.
I’m getting rid of them because I don’t think books ought to
furnish a room. I’m going to go slightly
metaphysical on you now. Books have no
intrinsic value. Their only worth is in
the thoughts they express. In turn, this
value is circumscribed by the quality of both the thoughts themselves and their
expression in a particular book. But
above all, if I’m right here, that worth dissolves into nothingness unless the
book gets read. I’m not going to read
any of these sixty or so books, and I can’t find a way of enabling or
persuading anyone else to do so. So in
every sense, they’re worthless. So
they’re landfill. Right?
And yet. And yet,
perhaps they do contain, at least some of them, an ineluctable value beyond the
paper, the cardboard and the words within them, read or not. I skim through the flyleafs (flyleaves?) and
find inscriptions which seem to carry their own stories, ones that will never
be told but just might still exist in a memory or an imagination. Certainly in an imagination, in fact: I find
myself creating their lives and relationships even as I transcribe them.
Poetical Works by Moore: “Caroline Matthias on her 13th birthday from her affectionate
cousin J M Laws. Jan 1861”
The May-Flower by Harriet Beecher Stowe: “R. A.
Scammell. A birthday gift from A.G. Feb 10th 1882”
The Poetical Works of William Collins “Edward
Geo. Browne Presented to him on the 26th
May 1834 by his friend and tutor J. Blern(?) Anstis(?) with the sincerest
wishes for his welfare. St Helier Jersey”
And in one of the Shakespeares: “E L Rea ‘02” That’s my
grandfather.
Thursday, 9 April 2015
Caravan revisited, at last
As I hadn’t been able to go and shut down the caravan in the autumn, I'd entrusted the task to Joseph.
So I phoned him last week and left a message to make sure the various
bits of plumbing would be on site for me to reinstall when I visited for the
grand re-opening ceremony. I’d planned an overnighter last Monday to do this, but this didn’t happen, mainly
because of westerly gales, so there was a smidgeon of anxiety when we set out
on Easter Saturday.
As it turned out, I needn’t have worried. Good old Joseph had not only delivered the
plumbing, he’d installed it too, almost certainly better than I’d have
managed. This man is a hero, as long as
you keep on the right side of him. I
think I’ve written before about this – the caravan site is run as a benign,
hands-off despotism, in which the rules often have to be uncovered by intuition
rather than read from a lawbook. Common
sense usually prevails – for example, don’t fly kites, there are overhead power
lines – but doesn’t necessarily suffice – always park across the slope, wheels
turned uphill, because a car ran away and crashed into a van, about twenty
years ago.
Bee had read a little item in the Telegraph (purely by
chance, not her usual paper of choice) about standing stones in Mynydd Preseli,
which was a good enough excuse to set off on Sunday to explore this wild piece
of inland Pembrokeshire. A quick
map-skim revealed that the area is riddled with ancient monuments, including
the birthplace of the Stonehenge bluestones, and sure enough we soon found Gors
Fawr:
Not a hugely informative notice*, you’ll agree – if anyone
knows the answer to the question, please do share it – and the stones themselves
aren’t that impressive, but the setting more than makes up for that:
Our next find, however, after a fabulous fish’n’chip lunch
in the garden of the Golden Lion pub at Newport, was the truly spectacular
Pentre Ifan**:
It’s what remains of a prehistoric burial chamber, the
covering earth having obviously long eroded away; but I couldn’t help imagining
the delight of that ancient architect in achieving that exquisite tripodal
balancing act.
Add in a re-(for me)-visit
to one of my spiritual homes, Strumble Head:
All in all, a thoroughly rewarding day out.
Should've taken my shorts, though.
*You can find some more information, albeit mostly
speculative, here.
**And here.
Friday, 3 April 2015
Dw i heb dy weld ti ers talwn!
Off to open up the caravan tomorrow, which will doubtless
inspire me to resume blogging – SAD always sets in in March, and I need
kickstarting, which a visit to West Wales usually achieves, especially when the
weather is as good as promised. I quite
liked the Plaid Cymru lady in the debate, didn’t you? And of course Nicola is a star. What a shame they don’t want to be
British. If they were, I’d vote for one
or other of them.
Meanwhile, a few Cameronisms which almost make you warm to
him:
- In the brilliant documentary about Parliament the other week, he informed us that the place was “half church, half museum, and half public school.”
- At PMQ last week, he said “A straight answer deserves a straight question.”
- And in yesterday’s debate, he informed us that “There are three sides to this coin.”
Iechyd da!
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